I'm in the market for a new TT bike and leaning towards a Speed Concept 7.5. I've been hearing and reading great things about Ultegra Di2 and would really like to make that upgrade with a new bike. The base 7.5 is $4199 (Ultegra). However, to get Di2 on the 7.5 you have to go with Project One and just going with a base Project One causes the price to jump to $5145 (still Ultegra mechanical). To get Di2 adds about $1400.
Trek Speed Concept Di2 Manual Download For Windows 7
So now it's up to grand total of about $6500. Would it be crazy to just get the base 7.5 and then get an Di2 TT upgrade kit? I've seen it on-line for around $1400 (would see if LBS would have it for about the same). That would give me a grand total of $5600. I could maybe (maybe?) even sell the Ultegra mech parts that I take off the bike and make a little money. Any thoughts?
Maybe I'm missing something. I'd probably give the install a shot myself (then go to the LBS with tail between my legs when I can't do it).
Anybody ever do this install on a SC? The 2010-2013 SC was designed with 7970-series Di2 in mind, because that was the only Di2 which existed at the time the frame and associated parts (like the seatpost) were designed. The e-tube version of Di2 with the internal battery option didn't come into the market until the original SC was near the end of its production run. Even then, you had the option to mount an e-tube version of the external battery in the same place we designed for the 7970-series external battery to go: on a purpose-designed rear brake cover. I was hoping you would pop up on this! Just curious if I'm missing something on this with the Project One price increase.
Trek Speed Concept Di2 Manual Download Windows 10
From what I can tell the main difference from the standard 7.5 to the base Project One 7.5 is the carbon seat post. A price increase of nearly $1000 for similarly equipped bikes seems odd, so perhaps I'm missing something. Or maybe it's just a matter of numbers and the additional cost is for the service of Project One. No problem if you don't know the answer as this is likely more of a sales and marketing question and not an engineering question.
Thanks again for the help. Your input on the other SC threads has honestly been what has pushed me towards that bike than some others. Tell the sales team that! If the only change you want to make to a stock 7.5 is the seatpost then no, P1 probably isn't the way to go. As you guessed, it's a service thing. It really depends on how comfortable you are in wrenching your own bikes. If you have built and rebuilt bike components before - multiple times, then changing mechanical components into Di2 in a Speed Concept is fairly easy.
Shimano Di2 Manual
However, if you are the type that can't seem to ever properly tighten a perpetually loose headset - or always have to adjust your rear derailleur because it never seems to shift correctly no matter what you do, then the challenge you intend to undertake will be hard. Like I said, it all depends on your mechanical skills and familiarity with bike components in general. I know many who could change all the spark plugs, remove the gear box, and bleed the brakes on their 20 year old cars but can't figure out how to adjust the limit screws on their derailleurs.
Should be a fun project overall though. But do note that Carl has a good point in just getting everything you will need in a P1 bike. That way you don't end up with a bunch of components that you never wanted and will have to sell at ebay at a steep discount. 0.
Most mechanics despise triathlon and time trial bikes. As a general rule, they’re difficult to set up and even harder to service if something goes wrong. I am going to cover the process of changing the shift cables/housings on a Trek Speed Concept. Not particularity exciting, but an important and necessary process to insure that this bike performs acceptably.
Below you can see the before/after pictures of the cable bend. The top image shows how a Speed Concept arrives from the factory. The severe cable angle at the adjusting barrel pulled the front derailleur out of adjustment so much that a simple downshift became a disaster. Chain decided to leave his home and do some damage to the frame. Time to fix ‘er up! Remove the crank.
Take off the “aero” bottom cover. Loosen brake cable fixing bolt. Remove brake stud plate. Pull off the cable guide All off. Now just be sure you don’t mix up your Trek® puzzle pieces.
We can swap out cables and housings. I made all the necessary cuts and replacements. Time to run housing through the frame. This isn’t just simply pushing housing down a tube; its a game. A cruel game that makes you test your patience and anger management skills. Here is my fishing kit. And with the cables successfully routed I can finally reassemble the brake.
However, adjusting the brake is a job in itself. Assemble, test, disassemble, adjust, repeat. Any simple adjustment requires a full brake removal and re-install. Even aligning a brake pad requires you to remove the crank on these bikes. Now I would have loved to publish this blog with the sole intent of complaining but I promise; I do have a point.
Accessibility and serviceability is important to a mechanic. I’ve replaced housings on other and have never experienced such a time consuming process.
And when we get right down to it; my time equals your money. A cable replacement on a traditionally routed frame is normally $7. On these we charge hourly! When you make your next bike purchase, consider asking about the bike’s engineering and what it takes to fix a simple problem.
Consider what it will take to maintain a bike that is this complicated. Such a bike can be dysfunctional, spend more time in the shop, and cost more to maintain. You don’t become a better cyclist when your bike is in a repair stand. Jeremy Moroder.
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